Saturday, October 17, 2009

IS this RACIST? Sometimes its not a simple Black or White.






So the cyber and fashion worlds are all atwitter so to speak. Getting in deep and deeper into the color divide debate. French Vogue editor, Carine Rotfield, has come under fire for recently publishing a photo spread of model Lara Stone painted black to match some of the clothing she is wearing. Lara Stone is white and while the photos are beautifully shot they also have a distinctly heated sexuality. There have been calls for the firing of the editor, a very vocal french cri de coeur, don't you think , of "off with her head" from newspapers and irate bloggers all over the world. People angrily insisting that the photo spread is racist and inflammatory and wrong. Insisting that this is another example of blackface buffoonery or mocking minstrels, a big photo spread N word that wraps itself in the guise of high fashion and art.

I think the Stephen Klein photo shoot for French Vogue is beautiful.

France is a country where African American expatriate Josephine Baker was treated like a Queen and revered as a Goddess. She was a French cultural icon of beauty, eventually becoming a French citizen, when back home in the U.S. she was still expected to ride in the back of a bus. France is where vocalist African American Nina Simone is revered as one of the greatest singers the world has ever known and where she died at age 70. France doesn't have the same recent weighted history of clashing color, of civil rights and race riots, as the US does. A nation where palpable tension simmers like a glass of angry OJ left boiling on the stove.

The image of the painted black hand holding the giant 65 carat marquise diamond is from a Vogue photo shoot by David Bailey from 1970. It was the idea of then editor Diana Vreeland who had the rock for two days to shoot. She had the gorgeous arm of a model who had the best arm in Paris, says Vreeland to model it. The model was white, a beautiful Swedish girl. The photo wasn't working. Vreeland thought it looked "too boring, too terrible - too tacky." She was on a deadline and frantic- the clock is ticking and nothing was working. She needed a shot that did the diamond justice. She went for a walk and she thought of precious stones and how they always were found in countries of people of color, who looked so beautiful wearing them on or against their varying shades of dusky skin. Her idea was to shoot the diamond not on a black hand but the white hand painted completely and artificially black. Painted with black shoe polish. She says in her book ALLURE that the reason the shot worked was it's absolute artifice. On a natural black hand , however beautiful, she says she would have just found it banal. Is this photo racist? Was Diana Vreeland the 1970's fashionista equivalent of wearing white sheets and burning crosses?

I think the image created by Vreeland and Bailey is beautiful.

The final images are ones taken from my own collaborative creative with photographer Margaret Malandrucolo many moons ago. It was one of those photo shoots where everything seems as if its falling apart at the last minute - the original model, a pretty white girl named Joanie, canceled at the last minute and our concept went out the window - the new 'model' we got was a club kid Margaret met the night before, who she thought had a great face, who's name escapes me.The idea came from me looking at the clothing the stylist brought. The origami paper shapes and hard angles of the clothes was my inspiration for hair and makeup. I had the idea of turning her into a half finished mannequin, whiting out all the skin on her hands and her facial features, letting color only come through where she came to life. Does making an asian girl look 'white' make me racist? I don't even remember contemplating the idea of cultural or ethnic sensitivity- I remember I just wanted to make amazing pictures.

I think the images* we created that day were beautiful.

I think the danger of becoming so politically correct and overtly sensitive to everyones issues and points of view is it becomes paralyzing. I think art, creativity and beauty should make us question ideas and the acceptance of the status quo. The way we see things like color and race and gender and sexuality need to be challenged for us to grow as people. Maybe the viewer's who see these images and cry racism and blackface have a bias they need to change. I see beautiful pictures. You? What do you see?

To see the entire sequence go to www,jodydaye.com under women's fashion

11 comments:

  1. OMG I so agree with you - Let's stop getting so hyper-reactionary every time we see things like this. I find that usually when someone gets offended, it's a comment on their OWN feelings (in this case racism) not the image in question. It's like when I used the word 'retarded' on my show once to describe an idea (as in: poorly conceived concept) and people complained. To me that said more about what THEY felt 'retarded' meant and their own prejudices against developmentally challenged people than it did me and my use of a real word in it's real meaning. xS

    ReplyDelete
  2. France is also a country that in recent years has been increasingly accused of racism, and unfortunately there have been race riots in th epast 5 years as tensions simmer.

    The days of Paris luring folk like Josephine and Nina are long gone. I am not going to call Mme. Rutfield a racist, but as a black person this spread defeinitely has racial overtones that leave me cold.

    ReplyDelete
  3. No I don't think so, I can see why some might think it is. However, it's one persepective in an art form, it's also 2009 and almost anything goes these days if done with class and a good concept.

    ReplyDelete
  4. as someone who approves of blackface in the right context (i.e. the movie Bamboozled, the play The Wild Party, various things that are set in a specific era), I do think this particular instance smacks of racism. It leaves me uncomfortable and I'm sure they did it knowing it would cause a mini furor

    ReplyDelete
  5. No. Just trying to be provocative.

    ReplyDelete
  6. certainly getting the coverage they wanted aren't they!

    ReplyDelete
  7. why do something that you know is so offensive no matter the context? be smart, be brave, be a rogue and use more imagination than that or get out of the business I say

    ReplyDelete
  8. It has it's origins in race construction in collonial Europe and the USA, and stems from very troubling and problematic processes that constructed male, masculine, heterosexual, white power relations in the past, that in many ways have permeated to current racial issues. I would really question who or what is being served by this ad campaign.

    ReplyDelete
  9. Wow I am technologically clueless. I thought I already posted a comment. Your thoughts gave me pause, I initially felt the opposite, and now have to contemplate some more. Is it art? I guess if you call it art -well then it's a choice, not really that progressive and certainly not original, but if you call it sales then it's just yucky. R

    ReplyDelete
  10. The advances that have been made in grande synthe are huge. We thought it a good idea to collate all the information available in one place so you can get the most out of grande synthe.

    ReplyDelete